Right in the middle of Rome's historic center (Centro Storico) sits the Parione district, home to many of the city's top sights – and within easy reach of many more. This is one of the oldest parts of Rome, and incredibly popular with visitors both day and night.
Two of the main attractions in this area are actually open spaces: Piazza Navona and Campo de' Fiori. The former is an unusually elongated shape and is famous for its ornate Baroque fountains and churches. The latter is perhaps best known for its small weekly outdoor market. And the narrow streets surrounding both are excellent places to wander.
Due to the Parione’s popularity with tourists, there are restaurants boasting “tourist deal” menus and bars charging a mint for a table on the square, but there are also gems to be found if you know what to look for. You should also be aware that the streets around Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori aren’t exactly quiet after dark. Nightlife is big in this part of Rome, and revelry often spills into the streets and squares.
Major Attractions
Piazza Navona
The first thing you might notice when you see Piazza Navona is its unusual shape – it’s long and narrow with somewhat rounded corners at one end. This shape belies its ancient origins as an athletic stadium that hosted sporting events such as horse races. Today, the main attractions are the monumental Fountain of the Four Rivers, designed by Bernini in the mid-17th century, and the gorgeous Baroque church (designed by Borromini) facing the fountain, Sant’Agnese in Agone. Piazza Navona is also home to Rome’s Christmas market. There are inviting-looking restaurants on the piazza where seating spills into the square, but keep in mind that the high prices reflect the desirable location.
Navona Underground
The stadium that gives Piazza Navona its unique shape, the Stadio di Domiziano (Stadium of Domitian), was built in the 1st century BCE. And while you can’t see anything of the stadium at ground level, you can see some of the ruins if you go underground. The ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage site, and you can explore them with an audioguide or book a guided tour with Navona Square Underground. You’ll find the entrance for the tours at Via di Tor Sanguigna 3 just off the north end of the piazza.
Campo de’ Fiori
Another outdoor gathering spot in this area is Campo de’ Fiori, a smaller square than Piazza Navona, where you’ll find a popular outdoor market open Monday-Saturday mornings. You’re unlikely to find the best prices in this somewhat touristy market, but it’s a charming atmosphere nonetheless. The modern setting feels lively and warm, but this square was once an execution site. The bronze statue in the square is dedicated to Giordano Bruno, a 16th-century philosopher who was burned at the stake. Like Piazza Navona, Campo de’ Fiori is ringed by several bars and restaurants that set up lots of outdoor seating after the market concludes, and the square gets especially boisterous at night.
Pantheon
Whereas many ancient temples were torn down when the Catholic church deemed the worship of Roman gods heretical, the 2nd-century Pantheon was reconsecrated as a church, and so it stands largely untouched to this day. (The inscription above the columned entrance roughly translates to, in part, “Marcus Agrippa made this.”) The rotunda’s enormous dome is still the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world, the design of which was a marvel to architects well into the Renaissance. The large oculus at the center remains the primary source of light (and rain during storms). Famous tombs inside the Pantheon include those of Raphael, King Vittore Emanuele II and Queen Margherita, who is said to have inspired the creation of the pizza bearing the same name.
Palazzo Farnese
Palazzo Farnese is an imposing 16th-century palace in Piazza Farnese that was originally the extravagant private home of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, who later became Pope Paul III. Michelangelo was brought in after construction had begun to modify the design to include an expanded third story. The palace was given to France in the early 20th-century and now serves as the French Embassy.
Piazza di Pasquino
The little Piazza di Pasquino is easy to miss, but it’s worth a stop to see one of Rome’s “talking statues.” These were places where Romans could anonymously post social commentary or political dissent, often in the form of poetry. The Pasquino statue in this piazza is the torso and part of the head of an Ancient Roman copy of an Ancient Greek sculpture, discovered and erected in the early 16th century. It soon became Rome’s first talking statue, and the tradition continues today. You’ll typically find notes posted on a board next to the statue (posting directly on the statue is no longer allowed).
Largo di Torre Argentina
There are far more places in Rome than the Forum to see ancient ruins, including Largo di Torre Argentina. You can see the ruins of four Roman temples as well as the Theatre of Pompey, not to mention the spot where Julius Caesar is believed to have been assassinated. Today, the archaeological site is not only worth a visit for the Roman ruins, but also for the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary that makes its home there. You’ll see cats napping on ancient stones throughout the space, and many of the cats are even available for adoption.
Church of San Luigi dei Francesi
San Luigi dei Francesi translates to “Saint Louis of the French,” which is appropriate for the national church of France in Rome. It’s near Piazza Navona and dedicated to the patron saints of France. The church was built in the late 16th century, and the main attraction is a series of paintings by Caravaggio depicting the life of Saint Matthew.
Church of Santa Maria in Vallicella
Designed by the same architect who completed Sant’Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona, Santa Maria in Valicella has a beautiful Baroque interior that features paintings by Peter Paul Rubens. There was once a Caravaggio painting in the church, but the original is now in the Vatican Pinacoteca (a copy now hangs in its place). This church is next to the Oratorio dei Filippini, dedicated to Saint Filippo Neri, the 16th-century founder of a community of secular priests, the Oratorians.
Biblioteca Valicelliana
The Biblioteca Valicelliana (Valicelliana Library) is adjacent to Santa Maria in Valicella in the Oratorio dei Filippini building. Upon his death, Saint Filippo Neri gave his substantial collection of books to the community, and they built the Biblioteca Valicelliana. Today, the library’s collection includes some 130,000 books and manuscripts, including a 9th-century Bible and a first edition of Dante’s Divine Comedy, printed in 1481.
Church of Santa Maria della Pace and Chiostro del Bramante
Not far from Piazza Navona sits Santa Maria della Pace with its pretty, curved portico. The church was built in the late 15th century and has several small chapels off both the nave and the octagonal main chapel. The main attraction is the Chigi Chapel, which Raphael frescoed. Connected to the church is a convent with a lovely cloister designed by Bramante.
Church of Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza
Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, designed by Borromini (who also designed Sant’Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona), is most notable for its architecture, including the small church’s spire, which resembles a circular staircase. The interior is shaped a bit like a six-pointed star, if the points alternated between semicircles and concave curves. At the time, a six-pointed star was known as the Star of Solomon, not the Star of David. The church is located between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon.
Museums
Museo di Roma
The Museum of Rome’s original collection documented Rome’s history, but it is primarily an art museum today. There is a permanent collection of thousands of items that are rotated periodically, and there are also temporary exhibitions throughout the year. The museum is housed in the Palazzo Braschi, a late-18th century palace originally built for the nephew of a pope.
The Giovanni Barracco Museum of Ancient Sculpture is, as the name suggests, a collection of ancient sculptures from all over the Mediterranean that originally belonged to Giovanni Barracco. He donated the collection to the city of Rome in 1904. The collection includes Roman, Greek, Etruscan, Egyptian, Assyrian, Cypriot and Phoenician sculptural works. The museum is housed in the Palazzetto Le Roy, between Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori.
Leonardo was not only a great artist, but he was also an engineer who designed hundreds of machines. And although many did not accomplish what he intended them to do, the variety of machines demonstrates Leonardo’s many fields of interest and tenacious curiosity. Not only are there 65 working models based on Leonardo’s machine designs at the Mostra di Leonardo, but the models are interactive, making it an excellent stop for those traveling with kids.
One floor of the 16th-century Palazzo Spada houses the Galleria Spada, a collection of 16th- and 17th-century paintings. Some of the artists with works in the collection include Titian, Artemisia Gentileschi, Caravaggio, Guercino, Peter Paul Rubens, Domenichino and Albrecht Dürer. After visiting the museum, don’t miss the colonnade leading to the building’s interior courtyard. Borromini designed the colonnade to trick the eye into thinking it’s very long and grand, when it’s actually quite short.
Shops in the neighborhood around Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori lean heavily toward the antique and vintage end of the scale, along with some designer clothing boutiques. One of the best shopping streets in Rome is Via del Governo Vecchio, near Piazza Navona, where you’ll find several vintage clothing shops. For antiques, clothing and accessories, stroll down Via dei Giubbonari or Via dei Coronari. The shops along Via della Scrofa include leather merchants, home goods and jewellery.
And, of course, there’s the Campo de’ Fiori outdoor market, which is open from roughly 7 am–2 pm, Monday to Saturday. In addition to food and flower stands, you’ll also see vendors selling touristy trinkets thanks to the market’s popularity as a tourist attraction.
Restaurants & Cafés
While there are restaurants with outdoor seating on both Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori, they’re not always where you’ll find the best food (or the most reasonable prices). This area is not without its great eateries, however.
For traditional Roman dishes, visit Armando al Pantheon, La Campana, Mimi e Coco, Maccheroni or La Quercia. Two popular places that specialize in Roman street food are Supplizio and Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara. Standouts for pizza include Emma, Forno Campo de’ Fiori (they also do street food staples) and Antico Forno Roscioli, which specifically makes Roman-style pizza. Looking for gluten-free crust? Head for Pantha Rei or Voglia di Pizza.
Cul de Sac is primarily a popular wine bar, but they serve food at both lunch and dinner. Roscioli is part restaurant, part gourmet food shop, so you can pick up some picnic supplies when you stop for a meal.
If you’re in the mood for a splurge, Retrobottega’s menu features unique versions of traditional dishes, and Pierluigi is known for its seafood. Terrazza Borromini’s enviable rooftop bar and restaurant overlooks Piazza Navona. Mater Terrae is another fine-dining restaurant with a rooftop location, and it’s also one of the rare vegetarian restaurants in Rome.
Satisfy your sweet tooth at Gelateria del Teatro, Günther Gelato, or Frigidarium. And you can jump-start your mornings by comparing the coffee at two famous bars near the Pantheon: Caffè Sant’Eustachio and Tazza d’Oro (in summer, don’t miss their granita di caffè).
These neighborhood favorites are just the beginning. When you stay with Italy Perfect, you’ll have access to our private Guest Portal, featuring detailed neighborhood and city guides with our top places to eat, shop and explore so you’ll feel at home in Rome from the moment you arrive.
Supermarkets & Convenience Stores
Small, independent grocery stores are known as “alimentari,” and they’re typically somewhat cramped. You’ll find a little bit of everything in these shops, though without the variety of a larger supermarket. Note that these are often closed on Sundays, so plan to do your shopping in advance.
There is a small and much-loved independent market right on Campo de’ Fiori: Ruggieri, open since 1919. The shelves are mostly stocked with fancier food items (think of it as the high-end grocery store in your town where you don’t shop every day, but it is ideal when you’re looking for special ingredients). The deli counter is the real standout, with everything from cheese to cured meat to prepared meals ready for you to heat up at home. You can even eat there if you’re peckish before you browse the shelves.
As for larger chain supermarkets, there are several Carrefour Express options in and around the neighborhood. There’s one not far from Campo de’ Fiori on Via del Biscione, one near the Pantheon on Via Giustiniani, one between the Pantheon and Campo de’ Fiori on Via Monterone, and one several streets to the west of Piazza Navona on Via del Governo Vecchio. You’ll also find a Coop supermarket on Corso del Rinascimento near Piazza Navona and a small PAM Local on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, a few streets west of the Piazza Navona.
Campo de’ Fiori Market itself is more touristy than it used to be, but the atmosphere of an outdoor Italian market is pretty hard to beat.
Transportation in the Piazza Navona & Campo de' Fiori Area
There are no Metro stops in this neighborhood, and no convenient tram lines, but there are lots of bus lines that serve the main streets around Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori. Look for stops along Corso del Rinascimento, Via Zanardelli, and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Yet, this is one of Rome’s finest neighborhoods for walking, with many of the city’s most beautiful sights just a short stroll away.
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